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Official StoreAdjustable Door Hinge Mortise Jig Kit
Hung six interior doors in an afternoon. Set the jig to 3-1/2", clamped it to the door edge, routed, moved to the next door without touching the setting again. The leaves sat flush the first time on every one.
2 weeks agoThe depth gauge is what sells this. My old method was a chisel and hope, and half the hinges ended up proud of the edge. Set the depth once here and every mortise came out the same.
3 weeks agoSolid aluminium, no flex when you lean the router into it. Just know it does the door edge only, not the jamb - I assumed it did both and had to chisel the frame side by hand. My reading, not the listing's fault.
1 month agoWorks well on 1/4" radius hinges. Mine are square-corner so I still finish each corner with a chisel, which the description does say. Adds a minute per hinge but the mortise walls themselves are clean and straight.
1 month agoRouter bit and the self-centering drill bit were both in the box, so nothing to buy before starting. The self-centering bit is the quiet win - screws pull the leaf tight instead of dragging it off the line.
1 month agoClamp it to the door edge and rout a mortise the hinge drops straight into
A hinge leaf sitting proud of the door edge catches a fingernail every time someone opens it. Cut too deep and the door binds against the jamb. Chiselling to a knife line by hand gets you close; a jig gets you the same depth on every hinge, on every door.
Guides are marked for 2-1/2", 3", 3-1/2", 4", 4-1/2" and 5" hinges, which covers effectively every interior and exterior door you will meet. Set the length against the mark instead of measuring off the hinge and hoping.
Radius corners at 1/4" and 5/8" rout complete. Square-corner hinges rout to the line and then take a chisel in each corner to finish — that is true of any router-based jig, not a shortcoming of this one.
Integrated depth gauges mean the mortise bottoms out at the same place every time. Set it on the first door, then rout the rest of the run without re-checking — all the leaves sit flush and none of the doors bind.
The knobs clamp the jig hard onto the door edge. A jig that creeps a millimetre halfway through the cut leaves a stepped mortise, and there is no fixing that afterwards — so the clamping is where a jig earns its keep.
6061 aluminium alloy with an anodized finish handles being clamped, knocked and thrown in a van without picking up rust or losing its edges.
No — this jig is built for the door edge. The jamb side is a different geometry and this is not the tool for it. Worth knowing before you order.
The jig, a router bit, a self-centering drill bit for the screw holes, and a screwdriver bit. You supply the router itself.
It routs the mortise, then you square the four corners with a chisel. A router bit cuts a radius — no jig can produce a true 90° internal corner on its own.
2-1/2", 3", 3-1/2", 4", 4-1/2" and 5", all marked on the guides. Corner radii of 1/4" and 5/8" are handled directly.
Only the anodizing colour. Same 6061 aluminium body, same guides, same capacity.
Honestly, for one hinge a sharp chisel and patience will do. The jig pays off from about a door's worth of hinges upward, and pays off properly on a whole house.